Day 14: Tsavo West National Park (Heading East) to Mombasa- beach paradise

Day 14: Heading, east, goal, Mombasa.

Spotted on the way  (Tsavo West National Park)

Kenya is different to Tanzania, you could feel it. I was amazed at how I got used to a certain culture in 2 to 3 days. Well, this is the trip and I must adapt quickly. So, after making my way out of the park, in daylight, I spent another 50km or so on dirt ad finally hit beautiful tar. This will take me I Mombasa, Kenya. Estimated time of arrival, 14:00.

30km from Mombasa. 358.4 since last tank full. Now put in 9.48liters. 1000 Kenya shillings.
Probably about 300km now. It was too cloudy to see Kilimanjaro.

Day 14: Mombasa Beach Paradise

So, I had driven from my friends in the game reserve, headed for Mombasa. Since I'd never been there I did not know what to expect. First off, I was not impressed with Kenyan drivers, neither car, nor truck drivers. The 'highway' from Voi (paved) to Mombasa was a veritable (my new favorite word) battle ground. It was only 2 lanes, no road shoulder either. So, the 97% trucks and 3% cars get frustrated with slow movers, then they overtake. Now, where I come from overtaking is done carefully and with safety in mind. Not here. I literally pulled onto the gravel 5 times to avoid head-on collisions with mainly trucks who thought that overtaking over a distance of 1km is cool. Wow, I could not believe it.

Tuk Tuk taxis (Mombasa) Standing still for a change.

Mombasa: Traffic here is horrendous. Tuk-tuks, scooter taxis, mini-bus taxis, private taxis, crazy sedan drivers, wow. Chaos of the highest level. It was drive or get left behind. So I did, heading for Mombasa backpackers, which I could not find even after circling the area so many times. I was determined to find a place before sunset tonight.  So I stop outside a place an ask a guy. He says he doesn't know, but we are standing in front of a place I can ask.



Wow: Do I have to stay only one night?  (This place was so amazing, and very affordable.)

Mombasa night (my castle in paradise)

So, he calls the lady and she comes out and says 3500 Kenya shillings. I say its s bit high and say I will go to the other place. While I was still contemplating going, she comes out and says she chatted with her boss and I can stay for 2000 kenya Shillings (about 23 US$). I say ok, and go in with the bike. Wow! The place isa freaking mansion. Undercover parking as well, dark wood everywhere, even a balcony?!!!!! And, I was the only guest, for about R200???? Yessssssss

Mombasa: I must come back.

Having walked to the ATM with the gate guard and seen the one beach, I knew this place could be awesome. Beaches, resorts on te beach, warm water, and mansions to stay in. Wow, from sleeping in abject poverty last night, to absolute luxury tonight, unbelievable.

Mombasa Beach

Neil Eybers on Mombasa beach

The next day I drove southwards from Mombasa and was happy to use another local ferry service.  I shared the space with trucks, buses, mini vans, and hundreds of commuters carrying anything from coal, to huge bags, to who-knows-what.

Mombasa is an island- ferry crossing

Did I say traffic in Mombasa is horrendous?  I meant it, you need hair on your teeth to drive in this place, that reminds me, I gotta shave my teeth now.... ;-)

Some Mombasa traffic

Day 10: Tanzania (Tunduma Border Town to Kisolanza)

The Old Farmhouse
I rolled through quite a few little towns and villages since leaving Tunduma. The speed limit ranged from 100+km/h to 50km/h in some little villages and right down to 30km/h in more dense ones. Its frustrating going from 100km/h to 30km/h but that's the Tanzanian traffic management system and quite frankly, its much safer as well.  People are very friendly wherever I have stopped but English language skills not as advanced as in Zambia and Botswana.

11:30 finally found Vodacom Mbeya. I need to get data activated so I can connect to the world.  I spoent some time getting a Tanzanian sim card, getting it registered, and then trying to move onwards.

14:18 I had a snack at a roadside stop after only 200km today. The traffic in the towns I have come through is hectic. I was thinking of one word describe it so here goes.

My lunch stop (Mbeya, Tanzania)

"Dusty-Chinese-designed-200cc-petol-fueled-apocalyptic-styled-drive-where-you-want-pepsi-inspired-madness"" there, the description for Tanzanian traffic in one word.

A light motor vehicle used for transporting anything possible (Tanzania)

15:05 filled up at Igawa Filling Station. 6.9 liters. 15 000 Tanzanian shillings = about R100?

Solar power is becoming very popular in Africa, for good reason.

Some of the roads under construction in Tanzania

A cousin of mine loves these guys...... they're so humble-looking

Tanzanians love it when you try and speak Swahili, so I am trying to make mental notes.

Swahili words learnt today:
Habari = how are you??
Nzuri = great
Jambo = hello
Karibu = welcome
Una Toka wapi = where are you from?
Asante = thank you

THE OLD FARMHOUSE: KISOLANZA
I checked into a place called the Old Farmhouse in an area called Kisolanza.  I rolled in just after sunset, as usual, and asked for a camp site.  When the manager (an Engliush guy named Archie) arrived, I had selected my campsite (after all, there was only 1 other tent in the entire camp site).

I asked if they rented bedding, they did not, but agreed to see what they could do. They managed to borrow me a duvet which I wrapped myself into that night.  

NOTE:  To the creepy crawly thingy that scared the living daylights out of me at 3am. That was not funny, creeping round outside people's tents in the middle of the night is not cool.

Kisolanza camp site

Hmmmm cooking with gas(oline) again :-)

Daily Routine
1: Check how far I can resonably get before dark.  Check how much charge is left in the Garmin, because I want it working for the last part of finding my sleeping place.
2: See what options the Tracks4Africa navigation software gives.
3: Check Garmin power levels. If low, charge while on the go, if high enough, its ok.
4: Select the most appealing sounding option and head there.
5: Now the fun part. Roll in, find what the prices are like and whether its reasonable. If camping is an option try and get bedding (since I am now 2 sleeping bags poorer).
6: Settle in (set up tent, try out bed, take basics depending on sleeping option from the bike).
With a setting sun my mind moves to the issue of accommodation again and the same 'old' routine for this trip.
7: Prepare a meal or get something if hungry. Write to my wife and do some blogging
8: Check maps, assess distances, points of interest (especially fuel or ATM stops) and program navigation system (GPS for the uninitiated).9: Get some rest. There's a new day of adventure waiting to happen.