Day 6: Livingston (Zambia)-The smoke that thunders

The ferry crossing at the Zambezi (very cool)

09:30 I arrived at the SA side of the border with Zambia. Things wet smoothly, no fees, all stamps given.

10:15 I get to the ferry 'terminal'. A guy waves me through and says he will help me, because I need kwacha and there's nowhere to change it.

I'm worried about the costs on this trip and the time ?I lost the whole day crossing the Zambezi by ferry, paying various fees, tolls, carbon taxes, police taxes, council taxes, etc.

All this was followed by me having to negotiate with my "self-appointed" fixer, who did help a bit by giving me money to pay the various fees ion Kwacha, but, who also wanted me to pay 267 US$ in the end?

I negotiated him down to 127US$ and we were both happy, though I was disappointed that these freelance assistants can just waltz round inside these border areas, "helping" people, then charging whatever they feel, without so much as a look from the officials on duty.  the officials themselves were very helpful and kind, but the freelance fixers, eish man.

A friend I had met taking his son and his Land Rover over says he paid 500 US$!!!!  this process must be managed better in future, but I guess its part of the "African" experience.

On the other side it had been crazy. My 'fixer' (who is fixing stuff for me) takes me to various doors, offices, etc, where I speak to officials and get documents (permits, taxes, etc) all the while using my fixer's kwacha, which he was giving me, and then returning my receipts for my records.  Driving onto the ferry was amazing. Crossing a river with a bike on a barge/ ferry awesome.  Water was splashing onto the deck from the little waves.

With water splashing onto the driving surface, very slippery.

Vic Falls: The Smoke that Thunders

Eventually I get to the falls, but first, another speeding "fine".  I was going 80 in a 60 zone. Same story, go to the car, talk to my colleague, etc. I end up paying 100 kwacha negotiated down from 180.  A camera, a traffic cop on the road, and one in the car, the "usual", and eventually 100 kwacha later, I am free to go (with no receipt, again).

Eventually getting to the Vic Falls I realise that the fine, the entrance fee (anopther 100 Kwacha) and the hassle of negotiating with the policeman was absolutely reasonable considering this is a world heritage site. It was nothing short of amaz

Rainbows caused by the spray...... you will not believe how much water goes over those falls, wow.

I couldn't leave the Falls quickly, I walked round them and spent time meditating at various spots. By the time I left the day was gone.  After rolling round in the tent for 3 nights, I booked into Jollyboys Backpackers to sleep on a dorm bed for 15 US$. This trip is adding up in terms of cost, and I hope to make it out and back in one piece, and with some change in my pocket.

On the ferry from Botswana to Zambia

At Vic falls posing

Day 4: Gaborone to Francis Town (Botswana)

Good morning Gaborone

Just after leaving the lodge I stopped at the 1st mall to draw some cash. Unfortunately the bank only opened an hour later, at 9am. Not wanting to get stuck further down the road without cash I waited and walked round the mall. It was huge, and had all kinds of shops, banks, even a Game store, a Cash Crusaders, and a Clicks store, so Botswana is very well connected.

After getting sorted at the bank I tried my luck at Cash Crusaders. I wanted to sell my 12 year old tent, which I had bought (already used at that stage)12 years ago. After much negotiation I was given 50Pula.

The tent was way too big (4 man size) for this trip,and was so old anyway, that I was quite lose to just throwing it away.

So, with the 50 Pula (about ZAR50), I headed to Mica hardware store and for a smaller 2-man tent and a smaller sleeping bag (remember, I lost that yesterday). Once I had acquired the smaller tent, and a new sleeping bag, I eventually extracted myself from Gaborone.  Heading further north, the day had only just begun getting interesting. The Dakar was hungry for the road, and off we went.

How many traffic cops can I meet in one day? 

It was 12:30 and I headed further north. The Dakar was roaring like a beast (well with the standard exhaust, more like a refined, well educated beast).

About 50km north on the A1 highway, which was in perfect condition, someone coming in my direction flashes their lights at me, now, since I had the orange headlight protector on, I thought that was the reason...... Boy was I wrong.

I saw him step into the road about 400m ahead and wave me down, so there was no doubt..... Traffic Cop!! But, I was sure I had slowed down after seeing the sign.

In South Africa the traffic officer comes to your window and gives you the fine, not here.  I pulled over, parked the bike and went to the officer who was very polite.  He sat me down in his chair by the camera, and said, 'have a look'.

He showed me the video..... There I was, coming round the bend.... (the video looked really cool) until the red '98' flashed on the screen, indicating that I had been doing 99 in an 80km/h zone. I could now stop protesting and accept my fate.

He said, 'go over to that lady in the police car and talk with her'... I was suspicious, but, had to go.

She invites me to sit down in the passenger seat and shows me a table. It shows the speed in 1 column, and the fine in the other column..... 360 Pula, about 400 Rand. Wow, I begged, I pleaded, and put on my saddest face, so she eventually said 'how much can you manage?'. My mind raced, too little and I risk insulting her, too much and I risk being over generous... A figure appeared in my mind...'100 Pula?'... She says ok and I take out the note. I put it down and we start chatting. She was so friendly.  'Older sister' friendly, not the other kind of friendly. She asks why I didnt bring my wife, why come this far by bike, etc. Etc. I even asked myself those questions, meanwhile my loving wife is the biggest supporter of me doing this trip. Anyway, I made a few jokes and off I went.  Even getting a pic with the officer that stopped me. Guess what he said when I ask for the pic? 'As long as its within the parameters of the law'. What a kind soul.

The traffic officer with the great speeding camera

Off we go, the Dak and I. Happy to be free on the black snake of tar.... Having paid our dues.... Or so we thought.  After 2 stops for animal infection control or something, we were cruising into Francistown when..... No, not again.

I pull over, convinced I had got it right . I had seen the 80 sign and slowed down, but nope, the camera shows me otherwise, so..... Off to the traffic office sitting in the car I go.

I put on the sad face, which was not an act, and proceed to nicely tell the traffic officer my situation..... Its getting late (it was 17:30, the sun sets at 18:00),  and I still have 40km to go to get to Francistown and on top of that I still need to find nice, clean accommodation. The kind gentleman asked if I can afford the 300 Pula fine. I said 'no', and showed the 200P in my wallet (the others was hidden elsewhere), and he drew me a map directing me to Tati River Lodge. He also made me promise to watch my speed, which I did smiling all the way.

Camping at Tati River Lodge (Francistown, Botswana)

18:00 I arrive at Tati River Lodge in Francistown, wow, what a nice reception area. I was worried about the price, and true to form, a chalet would cost 350P... But camping 75P!!! Great, I accept the camp site and set up my tent in the deserted camping area.

Crossing the Tropic of Capricorn in Botswana

Yep, that's us (the Dakar and I), and the tar snake going north ;-)