Day 19: Into Mozambique

I had been driving to Monkey Bay (southern part of Lake Malawi) and I had re-fueled at Mzuzu.  The drive there was scenic and went over the Viphya mountains from Mkondowe.  I had driven slightly (inland) away from the Lake to get a refueling stop at Rumphi, which was a town catering to visitors to the Nyika National Park.

So many options, so little time ..... 

Later this day I left Malawi a bit flustered.  I had not been able to get cash from the ATM of the NBS that had given me money previously. That made me worry alot, because I did not think I had enough money to pay for the nights accommodation. I had been keeping ye tank full while cruising down the western shores of the Lake (Malawi).  I had such big plans for my camping this night on the Lake at Monkey Bay.

The view up in the Dedza Mountains about 2000m above sea level

So, unfortunately I had had Monkey Bay in sight but decided to say goodbye to Malawi and head for the border with Mozambique (Dedze). This would be the 6th country for this trip.  I could have stayed at the Lake a few weeks, but that was not the aim of this trip.  This trip was about "making this trip", not about seeing everything in each country, so on we went.

Before leaving, I tried the NBS ATM at the border town again, of course it worked. Anyway, my goal had been o cross into Mozambique, so I did.

Spotted in Ulongwe, Mozambique (I agree 100% with the message on this building....... "This World is not our Home" )

The border crossing was easy.

Arriving at the border officials desk strange. All of a sudden there was a totally new language.

After te formalities (no visa fee and no TIP fee) the officials came out to see the bike, chat, and help me with changing the last malawi kwacha I had. They were very kind, even making sure I got the right amount.

I drove through to a Village they said would be about 40km away (Ulongwe) and where I could find accommodation.

I got there, saw a sign, and turned off. Now, the reception guy did not speak English, nor did most people it seemed. This was Portuguese speaking territory.

My bike in the parking area

An open market near Pensau Mansur (Mozambique)

I was catapulted into a new culture, a new language, new world.

My room would cost me 700 Mozambique 'Dollars'. I'm not even sure what the currency is right now. All I know is, I have a room, a clean bed, and a safe place to park the bike. Unfortunately, I only have 640 with me (which I managed to get at the local border exchange guy I mentioned earlier.

My accommodation (Mozambique)

Tomorrow morning, I will head for Zimbabwe, in order to work my way south to SA. But first, I need to get money at a Mozambique ATM.

Day 18: Tukuyu (Tanzania) to the border town ((Kyela, Tanzania)) to Malawi

I could not make Malawi yesterday so I had to stay at the local place (Gaga California Lodge). Today the road was winding on through the mountain. It seemed the place was getting greener and greener. Banana and papaya trees in every garden, and what seemed like a tea plantation on either side of the road.

Eventually I got to the border town (Tanzanian side known as Kyela). Crossing was relatively easy. On the Malawi side of the border I got stuck for what seemed like hours. I couldn't get money from the ATM for some reason. So I tried and tried both ATM machines but nothing. I checked my balance at the internet point at the border post office and everything seemed fine finance wise.

 

The road between Tukuyu (Tanzania) and Kyela (bordering Malawi)

The second time I checked via internet the postmaster asked if he could borrow me the 2000Malawi kwacha. I was so sorry to have to do that but had no choice.  This man did this out of the kindness of his heart and I was amazed by his generosity.  

Eventually I could pay, get my Temporary Import Permit, and go.

Kaporo Banks

I stopped at the first little town with banks but could get nothing out if the ATM machines. By the third ATM I was worried and went into the bank. Th kind official had to buy airtime for his own cell phobe so we could call FNB in SA. They confirmed everything should be ok and I should try again. I then found a 4th ATM which worked. Shooh. I was free to move on towards my goal, Lake Malawi.

Lake Malawi (Nkhata Bay)

I drove onwards, having lost about 4hrs. My direction was South. Seeing the lake in the distance on my left was exciting.

I arrived at a town called Mzuzu just before sunset, but, this was Malawi, and it had its famous lake, which I wanted to sleep next to. So, off I went to Nkhata Bay, another 45km. After 19:00 I arrived there. I was the only guest at Blue Bay Star Backpackers Lodge. I chose to camp on the beach. Lucky or me the full moon was rising over the lake this night. Awesome. The lake is so large you cannot see the other side (camping was 1500 Malawi Kwacha).

My first view of Lake Malawi (and my first hearing of the greeting "Give me Money" Wow, lake Malawi is so beautiful Lake Malawi

The Scottish manager organized me some supper (1600 Malawi Kwacha) and I could watch the moon over Lake Malawi from the bar up on the hill. A ferry floated around like something out of a movie and moved off into deeper water. Magical I tell you. The moon was reflected in the clear water.

After chatting with the barman (who was named "King") we listened to some music and eventually I got to sleep quite early (before 22:00). And woke before sunrise.The sun rising over the lake was magical. Just what I had wanted.

My castle on the beach (Lake Malawi at sunrise) 

The deck at sunrise (Lake Malawi)

The view over Lake Malawi from the doorway of my "bedroom"

Spotted in the morning (Lake Malawi) fisherman

My ride, waiting for more adventure at the lake

I was headed south for Monkey Bay.

Day 17: Mikumi Village to Tukuyu

I drove from Mikumi Village (The Swiss-owned Lodge and Camp Site) towards Mbeya.  Just before Mbeya (coming from the Dar Es Salaam (east) side) I turned south towards a town called Uyole.  The roasd was good with the usual speed humps in town.  With a setting sun I drove towards Tukuyu.  The sun had set and there was a light rain falling so I checked into a local owned guest lodge called "Gaga California Guest House" the night before. The place was not fantastic but at 11 000 Tsh (about 7US$).  It was funny because Ritma had just asked me if I had encountered any rain on my trip. I had been riding up into a mountainous area and it was getting more and more intense in terms of the weather.  The place was awesome in terms of view though./  I was riding on some sort of mountain ridge in the Poroto Mountain Range and the views were spectacular.  The place is so green and tropical looking.

At Gaga California Lodge I found clean sheets, a mosquito net, and undercover parking for my bike. I didn't eat that night as they didn't serve food. I'm quite a light eater though so no problems there.

Leaving Tanzania  (on the road going from Uyole to Kyela (bordering Malawi))

Day 16: Bagamoyo to Mikumi (Tanzania)

Walking on the beach was great. The tide was out. But. During the night I had woken to the loudest electric sounding explosion ever!!! I thought it was a dream/nightmare or the invasion of aliens. Truly, it was that loud,and somehow, with my eyes closed, sleeping, I had seen a bright flash. Weird.

This morning I tried chatting with some women collecting clams or something on the beach, mainly because I had take pictures of them clamming and they seemed to be complaining (in Swahili). Eventually I made them laugh by trying Swahili, helping them collect, and not taking any more pics.

These Bagamoyo beach babes were so sensitive

Bagamoyo beach on the low tide

 The beach is great. The weather awesome. But my family's not here, so, I will leave soon (hopefully by 10am).

Bagamoyo vegetation

Dhows are sailing, the few people on the beach relaxing, but me, in itching to drive south. Luckily its Sunday so I hope for very little traffic in Dar. I don't plan to stay there tonight. I want to head inland for Iringa again, or close as possible.

When I got back to my tent I struck up a conversation with my neighboring campers in their Landcruiser.

Astrid and John's Landcruiser camp site

They were South African as well, and had been spending time in Tanzania (3 months).  They were awesome and invited me to lunch, I could not resist (but there went my plans to leave early), and anyway, what was the rush?  Their potjie (little pot) food was so tasty, I was licking my fingers in delight.  It was the best food I had tasted in weeks. Eventually I managed to extract myself from their company and from their tasty food, and hit the road.

18:00 I just drove into Mikumi National Park, Tanzania. After 500m I saw 4 giraffe on the left. The sun was just setting. 5km further I saw a herd of impala. Wow! Accommodation is a it expensive for me here inside the park,  50 USD for camping, AND they expect you to book in advance? So drove 20km further to Mikumi village where there was cheaper accommodation.

''1man1bike1adventure" and 1amazing view after another

Mikumi National Park

This was a remarkable place. I hadn't even gone on a safari and I had seen animals, awesome I booked into a camp site owned by a Swiss guy. The place had an awesome shower for the campers. I was one of 2 tents. I set up under a tree, on a pile of leaves, great natural mattress by the way. Later the other camper came over and introduced himself. Daniel was his name. We had camped together before, at 'the old farmhouse'. Wow. What a small world out here. You tend to meet very interesting people.Constantine was one of them. He was interested in my journey since he also rides a motorcycle, and lives here in Tanzania, running a trucking business kept him going.

Camping in Mikumi "Village" (the pile of leaves made sleeping very comfortable LOL)

Lying on the hammock (earlier pic) I watched the moon through the branches

Anyway, the place was quiet, no music, just a hug screen TV showing the Tour De France. I realized I have not seen TV in a while.

I ordered a great traditional meal which I could barely finish (stiff porridge, with vegetables).

15:25 Fuel: I put in 20 000 Tanzania shillings (9 liters), after 256km traveled since last fuel stop. Have done an additional 208km now. Total so far today about 360km. Onward to Malawi.

Day 15: Back to Tanzania

I battled to get out of Mombasa. Pikipiki (motorcycle taxis) were picking there way, tuk-tuks were tuk-tukking, taxis (taxiing), cars careering, bicycles (trying), carts being pushed, buses bussing (?), and me, battling to get my piece of the road.

Another Mombasa beach (the morning of my departure)

Eventually I made it out of the city and into the most amazing countryside with palm trees so tall and hanging coconuts everywhere. The roadside was green. Very fertile, and unlike what I had been used to in some parts of this adventure.

This is such an easy name to remember....... 

Finally I made it to the border with Tanzania. Lunga Lunga was the Kenyan side, HoroHoro the Tanzanian side. Here I realized why I had not paid the 50US$ for a visa. They told m we (SA) and Tanzania now had a bilateral agreement. There was now no cost for a visa, great. I filled in a basic org for Temporary Import of my bike (no cost) and I was off. I still had my COMESA insurance o I was fine there as well. I changed some money with the. Pedestrian money changer (1800 Kenya shillings for 10 500 Tanzanian shillings). Good to go. So off I went.

Now, the goal was to find a nice place to stay, far enough south to make decent distance. I though, ok. Tanga sounds great, let's go there. Must be an awesome place with a name like that.

TANGA TOWN

I drove in, so far so good, thinking, let's get to the beach, see that, and take it from there.

I could not find the beach!!! Eventually I drove towards it, on footpaths, through some low tidal flats and there I came across a fishing area. Now, fishermen are normally jolly folk. Not this bunch. I don't know why, but I felt uneasy. So I chat with the oldest man there. Usually a good strategy as thy have seen it all. He's about 80yrs old I guess and even speaks a bit of English.

Small talk followed and he takes me to a table where unfortunately he gets me talking to a crazy guy. This guy looked like Samuel L Jackson, with an afro, glazed drunk look in his eye, and a big knife cleaning the smallest fish I had ever seen (maybe 7cm long?).

After introductions the small talk between him and the old man was weird. He obviously wanted to get money out of me somehow and the old man was saying he should b nice. All this was in Swahili but I knew bad vibes when I saw them. He offered me a boat ride, to an island and said its 300 US$. Wow, hectic!!! Is he insane? I say its steep and he says ok, how much do I have.

Tanga fishing beach

NEGOTIATION EXAM

So he eventually wants my cell no. And I say I don't know it. I give him my SA no. He doesn't even have a phone?!? And asks a friend. Now his friend tries calling me but has no airtime. They say I might not come back. In my mind I said, 'damn straight, as soon as I get off the beach I am gone like Donkey Kong.'
I eventually extract myself with many eyes on me. I felt glad to leave. When I drove through the leftover high water I was so happy.

Leaving Tanga's fishing beach

I decided to give Tanga one more chance. So I scouted a few streets and found a nice street with trees, even a bicycle lane, and a nice garden overlooking the sea. Even here the atmosphere was somber. It was like in a horror movie, where the new guy comes to town, its beautiful, but he's the only one who doesn't know the towns secret.

The view from higher up on the Tanga hillside

So I found a vendor selling fruit salad that looks good, and get one, hoping I would not get sick from the fruit. It was delicious, the best part of Tanga. It had avocado, papaya, banana, water melon, even cucumber.
Still I felt uneasy, so I decided to make tracks for anywhere else, wow, such a waste.

Tanga to Bagamoyo

I drove and drove, and drove, the sun set, I drove some more, and more, my garmin said there was a camp site at a place called Travelers Lodge so I headed there.

My camp site in Bagamoyo

15km out, true to Tanzanian style, ....... Deviation!!!   ! The road got worse the closer I got to town.
Eventually I was there. Wow, all rooms booked 65-80 us$, but camping was 12us$. Great.
The place is by the beach but I waited till morning to walk in the beach.

Day 14: Tsavo West National Park (Heading East) to Mombasa- beach paradise

Day 14: Heading, east, goal, Mombasa.

Spotted on the way  (Tsavo West National Park)

Kenya is different to Tanzania, you could feel it. I was amazed at how I got used to a certain culture in 2 to 3 days. Well, this is the trip and I must adapt quickly. So, after making my way out of the park, in daylight, I spent another 50km or so on dirt ad finally hit beautiful tar. This will take me I Mombasa, Kenya. Estimated time of arrival, 14:00.

30km from Mombasa. 358.4 since last tank full. Now put in 9.48liters. 1000 Kenya shillings.
Probably about 300km now. It was too cloudy to see Kilimanjaro.

Day 14: Mombasa Beach Paradise

So, I had driven from my friends in the game reserve, headed for Mombasa. Since I'd never been there I did not know what to expect. First off, I was not impressed with Kenyan drivers, neither car, nor truck drivers. The 'highway' from Voi (paved) to Mombasa was a veritable (my new favorite word) battle ground. It was only 2 lanes, no road shoulder either. So, the 97% trucks and 3% cars get frustrated with slow movers, then they overtake. Now, where I come from overtaking is done carefully and with safety in mind. Not here. I literally pulled onto the gravel 5 times to avoid head-on collisions with mainly trucks who thought that overtaking over a distance of 1km is cool. Wow, I could not believe it.

Tuk Tuk taxis (Mombasa) Standing still for a change.

Mombasa: Traffic here is horrendous. Tuk-tuks, scooter taxis, mini-bus taxis, private taxis, crazy sedan drivers, wow. Chaos of the highest level. It was drive or get left behind. So I did, heading for Mombasa backpackers, which I could not find even after circling the area so many times. I was determined to find a place before sunset tonight.  So I stop outside a place an ask a guy. He says he doesn't know, but we are standing in front of a place I can ask.



Wow: Do I have to stay only one night?  (This place was so amazing, and very affordable.)

Mombasa night (my castle in paradise)

So, he calls the lady and she comes out and says 3500 Kenya shillings. I say its s bit high and say I will go to the other place. While I was still contemplating going, she comes out and says she chatted with her boss and I can stay for 2000 kenya Shillings (about 23 US$). I say ok, and go in with the bike. Wow! The place isa freaking mansion. Undercover parking as well, dark wood everywhere, even a balcony?!!!!! And, I was the only guest, for about R200???? Yessssssss

Mombasa: I must come back.

Having walked to the ATM with the gate guard and seen the one beach, I knew this place could be awesome. Beaches, resorts on te beach, warm water, and mansions to stay in. Wow, from sleeping in abject poverty last night, to absolute luxury tonight, unbelievable.

Mombasa Beach

Neil Eybers on Mombasa beach

The next day I drove southwards from Mombasa and was happy to use another local ferry service.  I shared the space with trucks, buses, mini vans, and hundreds of commuters carrying anything from coal, to huge bags, to who-knows-what.

Mombasa is an island- ferry crossing

Did I say traffic in Mombasa is horrendous?  I meant it, you need hair on your teeth to drive in this place, that reminds me, I gotta shave my teeth now.... ;-)

Some Mombasa traffic

Day 13: Birthday - part 2: into Kenya

So my border crossing into Kenya went smoothly. Interestingly, they have a huge bank after the immigration office, in the middle of nowhere, well, between immigration and customs actually, but the distance is probably a kilometer or so.

It was 16:30 (17:30) local time and the guard suggested I get accommodation right there, then drive the compulsory dirt road through the park in the morning. My garmin navigation system said there was a lodge 20km down the road though, so I thought what the heck, it will only be dark in an hour, I can get there and camp before dark. So off I went.

After 20km I didn't see th turnoff and thought, that's strange, maybe a bit more? So on I went through the game park which reportedly had many wild animals, especially elephants. Wow. A landcruiser with what looked like rangers / guides came past and I asked about the lodge, they did not know about it an said if I drive 30km further there was another one. Wow. So on I went, the sun went down and stilll on I went, carefully picking my way between potholes, sandy bits, rocks, etc, at about 35km/h. After 30km fear set in, after 40km I was desperate, after 50km I started seeing newspaper headlines, 'Man dies after falling from his motorcycle, not being able to pick it up again, and being trampled by elephants and chewed up by hyenas in game park..... On his birthday'.The lights coming toward me brought hope, I was sure the rangers had alerted a search party, but no, the taxi just left me in a dust cloud and drove on in the other direction.

My bike parking in the curio shop.

When I got through some kind of hanging wires I saw a curio shop/house next to the road. Fortunately Evans understood and took me in.  I asked if I could sleep at their place, in the garden (in my tent of course), and he agreed.

Evans' amazingly generous family (my hosts)

Evans: Curio shop owner and tourist saviour extraordinaire

My bike vs Evans' bike

Spotted the next day (donkey power)

Once I was introduced to his wife and sister discussions ensued.  It turns out he had forgotten to get a few things from the shop on his way home.  So, I agreed to take him to the shop on the motorcycle.  Helmets are a luxury in these parts so he didn't wear one.  When we got to the shop I met his mother and father, who greeted me and got some basic information.  he chatted with Evans in Swahili.  I didn't understand, but, body language made it clear.  His father had said that I should sleep inside the house since I had come so far (from South Africa).  It was then agreed that they give me a bed inside the house in order to keep the peace.  Evans' wife even made us supper, and made us all french toast in the morning as well. Wow. I donated something and after exchanging contact details I was off at 11:00 the next day.