Day 24: Nelspruit (Funky Monkey Backpackers Lodge) to Bethel (via Swaziland?)

Now, Nelspruit is not a town I would choose as my primary destination for any trip.  However, it had some good points and nice views.  The gardens are well planted and the area well managed.  of course, every time I go there I will want to stay at...... drum roll..... the Funky Monkeys.....

But, don't challenge Tim the barman to pool.  he is a champion pool player and not only creates an awesome atmosphere, but kicks your butt on the pool table as well.

Funky Monkey Backpackers

Last night I was brave enough to challenge Tim (the barman), Luigi (the Italian guest married to a Zulu woman), John (the Australian traveling with his Mozambican friend who loves karate).  This place rocks any day of the week and the colorful people make it even better.

Luigi (the Italian pizza guy) vs Tim (the South African host and pool specialist)

I eventually extracted myself from the Funky Monkeys and headed for another little goal before going home, Swaziland (country no. 8 for this trip).

Day 23: Louis Trichardt to Kruger (Punda Maria gate) and on to Nelspruit

The Ultimate Guest House with its Ultimate Fireplace

This fireplace warmed me last night.  It was where I sat while on the w-fi internet service and before going to bed.  That was so cosy and warm.  Outside was chilly, but I slept well.

The pool at the Ultimate Guest House was so inviting, but, maybe during summer this might be better enjoyed....... so on I drove towards the Kruger Park.  I had agreed with myself that if the bike went normally, I would attempt to get into the Kruger Natioonal Park and attemopt to drive down the length of it.  Well, I drove to the Pundas Maria Gate but nope, I was not allowed in.  So I drove back a bit and headed south along the length of the Park (outside the gates).

Along the way to Nelspruit

This still felt like Africa, but with a South Africa twist, and the dusty little towns didn't stop coming.

Signs that I was in SA did appear though..... better farming, more fresh produce, better organised crops and animals, etc.

Banana Trees, South African farms

The sign warning of a Hippopotamus (spelling?) was exciting but of course they hide during the day due to their sensitive skins.... the hippos, not the tourists LOL.

The only hippo spotted (no, not the guy in the mirror, the guy on the sign above him)

My aim was to get to Nelspruit and to stay at the Funky Monkey Backpackers Lodge.  I had stayed here before and wanted to stay here again.  I knew this place would be awesome, so i wanted to see it again.
Along the way I drove along a pass known as the Long Tom Pass.


Long Tom Pass
Unfortunately I drove this pass at night but it was exciting all the same.  I knew I was high up and the views in the early evening were nice.  I reached the top after dark and this had been Steve's (the biker in Zimbabwe) advised route so I had to tryi it.
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Eventually I reached the Funky Monkey Backpacker Lodge..... awesome.

Day 22: From the Giraffe Rally to Beit Bridge (back to South Africa) and into the Limpopo Region

Driving from the Giraffe Rally was bitter-sweet.  These guys had been absolutely awesome.  The atmosphere had been great, and the weather just as good.  They had loaded some meat onto the spit braai and the day was gonna be nice (for those who ate meat of course).

On the bridge at the Giraffe Rally (check the next BikerSA magazine for an official pic)

The drive to Beit Bridge was sunny and warm.  The usual donkeys and cows occasionally came into view and tried to teach bikers about awareness ahead on the road.

I took a pic at a huge Baobab at the side of the road before getting to Beit Bridge, see pic below.  These trees continue to impress me with their amazing beauty.

Baobab in Zimbabwe

Eventually I get to beit Bridge and the Zim Border Town developed right before it.  The Zim officials were a bit, well, what's the word I am looking for?? shall we call it "un-energiuzed??"

NOTE:  When leaving Zimbabwe at Beit Bridge, do not, I repeat, DO NOT, get rid of all your money until you have paid the last-minute bridge-toll-fee.  This happened to me and I had to get back on my bike, drivew back to the Zim border town (about 1km) and draw cash for the fee, about 5US$.

Eventually I crossed to the South Africa side, but not before a ZImbabwean guy tried to get me to give him money for being alive.  I kindly told him that this attitude that tourists must give people money for just being present in this world must stop and that if we can get this right, Africa will be a much better, and more inviting place.

I then got on my bike and drove over the Beit Bridge.  Sorry, no pics of this bridge, but it really is a bridge, with lots of pedestrians walking over the pedestriuan part.

getting to the South African side was of course, one of the most disheartening experiences for me.  I had crossed many border during the last 3 weeks or so, but this was the worst.  perhaps it was the fact that I was South African and expected that, coming back to my home country I would be welcomed, and my passport stampoed before foreigners with dubious business plans, or that the sings saying "SA Passport Holders", actually meant what it said.  maybe it was the fact that my bike's side stand had collapsed, yes collapsed, just before crossing the bridge to SA soil.  (I have never in all my blog reading, and website trolling, read of something like this happening, but it truly happened to my bike).  I just pulled up at the Zim immigration office, and tried putting the bike on its stand..... and...... flop.  The bike went to lay down on its side like a giraffe goes to drink water.

Its side stand just went sideways and up, like a giraffe when it drinks water.  I was more surprised than upset, and found out that yes, I am actually strong enough to lift these (more than) 200kg on my own.

Driving into Musina, I had delusions that I would be happy to be ion SA soil, the land of my birth.  But no..... this place was attempting to chew rotten eggs and spit them at people.  Signs along the highway said "dangerous area, do not stop" and similar messages.

The fact that the bike was now stalling, surging, and generally behaving like a bucking bronco did not aid my return either.  But, "onward Christian soldiers" I went and tried to nurse the bike forward under 100km/h.I drove through the Verwoerd Tunnels (quite scenic) and was amazed at how it seemed squatters (informal traders) could set up shop on the most scenic spots along this route, but yes, this was still Africa after all.

THE ULTIMATE GUESTHOUSE
Eventually I reached the end of my rope, meaning I needed to check in somewhere, find internet access, contact a mechanic, and get an idea of how to fix my bike, or this trip may end in a ride back to Cape Town on the back of a truck or trailer. I found aplace called "The Ultimate Guesthouse" and though, hmmm, this must be good.

They only have 4 camp sites, but nice facilities, and the hottest shower I had experienced in weeks (yesssss!!).  I set up tent, ordered a plate of food, and got some internet wi-fi access.  Now was the time for me to find an answer to the bikes mentasl issues.  

Eventually I find people who had similar problems on the internet and they suggested side stand (electronic sidestand switch) problems.  Shorting the switch out was the solution.  I tried it, re-connected the loose wires for my USB charging plugs as well, and waited for the morning to test everything.

Yes yes.... a "real" model in the making.....

Day 21 (evening): and Day 22 (morning) at the bike rally - "A Man from Mars"

THE GIRAFFE MOTORCYCLE RALLY

When I arrived at the bike rally I was so relieved to see the petrol for sale (as indicated by the friendly Zim officers at the toll booth.  Did I already tell you motorcycles don't pay toll fees in Zim while every other vehicle does?  I already loved this country for that fact.  In South Africa motorcycles pay the same fee as a car with a caravn behind it (now please go sit down and figure that one out).

There were lots of bikes. Probably 50, well, for me that's a lot. A huge bonfire, and a couple more fires, a bar, tents, people, music, and a cover charge (R230). I hadn't planned for that. I only had 14$ on me (remember in Zimbabwe they use a combination of us dollars and sa Rands).

Well, I promised to pay via internet if I could log on.

I eventually found Steve and his pillion wife and what a guy. Awesome couple of people, they are such nice peeps, they invite me to stay with their biking club in their hut/chalet, whatever....... Doesn't matter, because people, I had a soft, warm bed for the night awesome. They really are a great couple and are both happy I came, me too. They introduce me to the other bikers as the guy who is on a legendary trip...... So funny.

Am I a Man from Mars ??

Anyway , I left my already pitched tent and slept their in their club's quarters, very nice people. I chatted with them in the morning and that night. They all think highly about safety and do many rides together. Sounds quite good. I'm the only one who's never been to a rally? Right there...... I had the feeling .... You know.... The one where you think..... 'Hey, I must be a Martian???!???'.

Giraffe Rally at Todds (2013)

Giraffe Rally 2013 (I know, terrible pic)

Steve and his wife at the Giraffe Biker Rally 2013

The next morning everybody drove to an old bridge nearby and had a group photoe taken.  The sun was nice and warm and the company as well. 

Day 21: Mutoko (Zimbabwe) via Harare to Beit Bridge (Zimbabwe side)

The border officials were kind yesterday. The visa was free but I paid 6$ + 10$ for something to the Zim Revenue Official. Luckily I had my comesa insurance from Tanzania, so saved some dollars.

Harare, Zimbabwe

80km on I found Nyamakwere Lodge and got a camp site. The receptionist offered me a bath or shower option, I chose bath. The restaurant / bar was nice and I spent the evening watching the Euro Womens semi-final match between Norway and Denmark, sorry Denmark, the penalty shootout got you in the end.

I left early, heading for Harare. Wow. Its well developed. I managed to draw some dollars from the ATM. Here they use US$ but give you change in SA Rands (strange).

It was 5 days before the national elections and I did not want to see too much. By now, I'm ready to see my family. This trip has been awesome, but unfortunately it was winding down now.

I'm headed for a famous border post, Beit Bridge.


On my way to Beit Bridge a biker and his pillion pass me at about 140km/h. I was doing about 110km/h, which was high for this trip. Later, about 2km down the road I pass a guy waving at me. Its the biker. I think, is he ok? An stop a bit further down the road (50m). He comes running. 'Hey, where am I going he asks', I say 'Beit Bridge', because I'm trying to get home to my family after a marathon trip crossing Botswana, Zambia, Tanzania, Kenya, back to Tanzania, Malawi, Mozmbique, and now Zimbabwe. He says 'wow', that's awesome, and tells me about the Giraffe Biker Rally happening this weekend, as an annual event. I say, I've never been to a rally, and he says wow. I'd never felt it necessary to go to one? So he goes back and says, he just wanted to tell me and thought I might want to go along, but it meant turning right, off this route, on another road that went past Bulawayo but also to Beit Bridge.

I politely declined because I was set on crossing the border today, tonight, whatever.

So I drove on to Beit Bridge.

Truck loads of voters singing for the election in Zimbabwe on 31 july, 2013

When I got to Beit Bridge, it was 18:00, and dark already. The guy, Steve, had mentioned that you could also turn 'back' from here, and kind of double back on the other road to get to the Giraffe Rally......... I was thinking that he was so kind to invite me, and I turned it down? So. ....... I turn right, away from Beit Bridge (which was left), and I decide, ok. Let's go to the rally and see what its about, since I anyway need a place to sleep tonight, so, off I go, to the rally.

Now. I've driven 305km on this (17 liter capacity) tank already

I thought it would only be 50km down the road so I should make it. Without filling up, or getting more cash, I drive on. To honormy invitation. Now, the 50km came and went and on I went in the dark. On, and on, and on..... 97km later I got there. Sweating from the fact that I had barely any fuel in my tank, the donkeys were grazing by the roadside and scaring th living daylights out of me, and I don't even know of I will like the rally..... But I juuuust make it.

Day 20: Mozambique (Ulongwe) to Zimbabwe (Mutoko area)

Man, I am so confused about which day it is. If this is day 20, what happened to the others?

Anyway, I woke early, before 5am. I thought the sun was rising, but it was the light outside my door in the passage.

I walked to the nearby ATM but it was swithed off? Now what. The reception guy (who speaks practically no English) says, '8 o'clock'.

Once again, I am desperate to find a visa powered ATM that works. Hope this town has one. Also, I really need get a message to my wife, whom I have not spoken with for days.

At 8 o'clock I walk to the ATM with the young guy (Fernando). A line of people has grown from 4 earlier to about 30. The ATM was out of cash and they needed to wait for it to be reloaded.

I couldn't get money over the counter and the ATM asked me for 6 digits for some reason, other people were only asked for 4?

Well, after much delay and discussion, the guys at the rest house let me go (I was 60 Mozambique Meticas short (about 2us$).

I drove to. Big town called Tete where I knew an ATM tat worked waited. Luckily I had filled up before entering Mozambique.

At the ATM I met 2 south Africans who were doing missionary work for a month.

Just before crossing Tete's bridge

The bridge over the Zambezi (Tete, Mozambique)  (I took this pic while driving, after taking the phone from my pocket, unlocking the phone using my secret code with one hand, then aiming, and shooting........ i was pretty impressed with myself LOL .... )

We chatted briefly and parted ways. Shortly after getting some cash I crossed the Zambezi river, for the second time on this trip, but this time on a brand new bridge, one of 2 being built by mozambique.

The brdge over the Zambezin at Tete (after crossing)

Off I went to the border. The road was good. People by the side of the road were crushing stone by hammer (or some hand implement).

Taken by a passer-by, what a friendly guy.  I used all 10 Portuegese words I knew on him.... and he loved it

On the way I was glad to see many more baobab trees, they really are amazing looking.

I quickly learnt what this sign meant .....

The road was good until, it was not anymore. Potholes linked by bits of tar occurred randomly. It tool a lot of focus driving this road, and sharing with the many trucks that were also doing this route.

After Tete (Mozambican deviation road!!)

On the way I stopped at a village to take pics. 2 guys appear from nowhere. One asks for a lift, I say ok. So off we go. After 25km we get to the border and he asks me for 2$ for showing me the way!!?!! What a crazy, I told him he owes me 2$ instead. I drove off to Mozambique immigration and customs to get my papers sorted.

Baobab in Mozambique

After making friends with the Mozambican officials, who walked me out the door and came to look at my bike, as well as calling a foreign exchange "consultant" to help me change money from Malawian Kwachas to Mozambican Meticas.  While changing they kinda scolded the guy for trying to cheat me out of a few Meticas, and he kindly gave me the balance. What kind officials, with a smile and a wave we parted ways.

ZIMBABWE INTRODUCTION
On the Zimbabwe side of the border the officials were kinda serious, until the one made conversation with me about my interesting trip.  Payments were made at a well-marked counter (I think it said Zimbabwe Revenue Authority) and signs spoke against bribery.

Zim seemed organised and hard at work making a good international impression.  I was quite impressed, considering all the bad we read anbout the place in the news in South Africa.

After tyrying to leave the border area gate innto Zim, the gate guard lady says the Interpol Police officers want to see me.  I drove back the 20m or so and introduced myself.  They asked for the passport, and some basic questions.  They said I should bring police clearance next time.  I am still not sure if its for me or the bike.  I was grateful I didn't have to unpack the bike panniers since it was late and getting to sunset, about 17:00).  They kindly greeted me and waved me on.

This was the only border I had seen Interpol at.  Zim was definitely doing good work..... but I was not criminally intentioned and got through relatively easily.........

ZIMBABWE NIGHT 1
I reached a lodge called Nyamakwere, and pulled in.

The entrance to the lounge / bar / reception area was very nice.  Locals and a few guests mingled at the bar quietly, watching the sports channel and the eNews Channel.

I found out that they had camping and booked in.

Just before departure from Nyamakwere Lodge 

Yes...... I was the only camper once again ;-)

Day 19: Into Mozambique

I had been driving to Monkey Bay (southern part of Lake Malawi) and I had re-fueled at Mzuzu.  The drive there was scenic and went over the Viphya mountains from Mkondowe.  I had driven slightly (inland) away from the Lake to get a refueling stop at Rumphi, which was a town catering to visitors to the Nyika National Park.

So many options, so little time ..... 

Later this day I left Malawi a bit flustered.  I had not been able to get cash from the ATM of the NBS that had given me money previously. That made me worry alot, because I did not think I had enough money to pay for the nights accommodation. I had been keeping ye tank full while cruising down the western shores of the Lake (Malawi).  I had such big plans for my camping this night on the Lake at Monkey Bay.

The view up in the Dedza Mountains about 2000m above sea level

So, unfortunately I had had Monkey Bay in sight but decided to say goodbye to Malawi and head for the border with Mozambique (Dedze). This would be the 6th country for this trip.  I could have stayed at the Lake a few weeks, but that was not the aim of this trip.  This trip was about "making this trip", not about seeing everything in each country, so on we went.

Before leaving, I tried the NBS ATM at the border town again, of course it worked. Anyway, my goal had been o cross into Mozambique, so I did.

Spotted in Ulongwe, Mozambique (I agree 100% with the message on this building....... "This World is not our Home" )

The border crossing was easy.

Arriving at the border officials desk strange. All of a sudden there was a totally new language.

After te formalities (no visa fee and no TIP fee) the officials came out to see the bike, chat, and help me with changing the last malawi kwacha I had. They were very kind, even making sure I got the right amount.

I drove through to a Village they said would be about 40km away (Ulongwe) and where I could find accommodation.

I got there, saw a sign, and turned off. Now, the reception guy did not speak English, nor did most people it seemed. This was Portuguese speaking territory.

My bike in the parking area

An open market near Pensau Mansur (Mozambique)

I was catapulted into a new culture, a new language, new world.

My room would cost me 700 Mozambique 'Dollars'. I'm not even sure what the currency is right now. All I know is, I have a room, a clean bed, and a safe place to park the bike. Unfortunately, I only have 640 with me (which I managed to get at the local border exchange guy I mentioned earlier.

My accommodation (Mozambique)

Tomorrow morning, I will head for Zimbabwe, in order to work my way south to SA. But first, I need to get money at a Mozambique ATM.