Local Newspaper Article & Welcome Back!

I arrived safely back home (on Wednesday 31 July 2013) and by the next monday (5 August 2013) fully submerged myself in my work issues.  I am working on updating the published posts and will be sharing the information worldwide on an ongoing basis with anybody interested.

Here You can read a local newspaper article, that was written before Neil (me) left on his adveture trip. Please click on the link to open the article:

HIS AFRICAN DREAM ON A MOTORCYCLE

Day of departure

My wife arranged a party to welcome me home and I did a brief presentation to all present.  They were interested and that surprised me.  i thought this trip would only be something I enjoyed and maybe one or two otehr people.  The interest has overwhelmed me and touched my heart.

I only hope that the special people in my life feel inspired and know that they are capable of even more than I have done in my life.  They must go further and do more than I could ever dream.

I dedicate thios blog to my wife (Ritma Grizane) and to my sons (Tristan and Markus) who all gave me the support necessary to complete this trip.

Welcome back party

I love you 3 more than all the countries, all the scenery, and all the beautiful drives in the world.

Day 26: Colesberg to Somerset West

I woke early............. knowing I would see my amazing family today.

Colesberg Lodge Pool Area

I said goodbye to Colesberg Lodge, once again she had been kind to me.  I had slept well, woken refreshed, and ready to complete my journey by driving about 700km home to Somerset West, Cape Town.

On and on the N1 went.... on and on.....straighter than an arrow.  i follwed and tried to stay defrosted.  i was told by a motorsist at one of the compulsory road works stops, that it had been -5 degrees Celsius in Colesberg this morning..... brrrrrrrrr no wonder my finger tipes had frozen up.

The N1 to Cape Town (from Colesberg) straight asd an arrow

I passed Laingsberg, then Touws River and arrived in Worcester.  here I tyurned off and headed for Villiersdorp and Grabouw.  This would be my last scenery before sunset and arriving at home about 20:00.  Along the N1 i noticed that spring had sprung.  The flowers were so brightly colored.  Absolutely amazing, in all this grey background, the color splashes that somebody had put their for my arrival were so amazing.

I eventually drove on the R43 to Villiersdorp and Grabouw.

Spring has Sprung........................

The beauty didn't stop.

Just before Villiersdorp

One last pic of the model before sunset......

Sunset.... the last one for this adventure..............

And... all too soon, I was home.  The lights of Cape Town had twinkled something like this pic below......

I snaked down this dangerous pass, the last one leading me home.... and within 15 minutes, my trip ended, in the arms of my wife and sons. I was greatful to be home, sad to have ended the trip, but happy all had gone well.  I hope this trip inspires somebody out there to do great things, to see the world, or even a small part of it, and to realise...... it always seems impossible, until somebody does it.

8 countries, 12 000km, 1 month

1 little man, 1 medium-sized bike, 1 giant adventure

Day 25: Bethel to Colesberg

I woke in the Bethel caravan park before sunrise.  This is what I saw.

Misty morning........ don''t see no sun.....

Happy to have slept well .... but misted out

I left the caravan park without paying.  Nobody was at the gate the night before nor the morning, so, who was I to look a gift (Bethal-born) horse in the mouth.

Bethel camp site

The morning was so cold and misty, I stopped a few times to defrost and wonder....... where's the sun??  I drove on, through the mistJohannesburg on the N17.  For hours the mist persisted. I saw another strange sign 9below).... there were no trees, no signs of owls...... but every 5km a sign said..... "owls for 5km???".  very strange, anyway.... onward chilly bones.

Eventually I got through the mist and made it to an area called the Karoo.  The N1 had been kind, but boring.  it was a straight road, a road for the brainless who just wanted to drive straight.  It's not adventurous, not exciting, but it gets you there quickly, and with the minimum vehicular damage.

Karoo water pump

In the Karoo I made it to a town called Colesberg.  Now...... I knew this town.  i had driven through here a few times in my short life.  The place had a nice name .... but it was misspelt.  The name was "Coldberg", not Colesberg.

So I knew right on where I wanted to go..... the Colesberg Lodge.

COLESBERG LODGE
I had stayed here before and knew the lodge.  It provided clean, neat, safe accommodation at a reasonable price.  I got a room (with twin beds), with secure parking and an en-suite bathroom for R315.  No tv, just a ceiling fan...... this probably meant more to people during summer months.  i was happy with just a warm bed and clean blankets, and a hot shower of course.

"Camping" at the Colesberg Lodge

Day 24: Piet retief to Bethel

I left Swaziland peacefully.  My bike drove well, the officials were kind, and friendly (yes even the South African ones), and I was kind of relieved that I could enter SA on a better note this time.  Did i mention that I had to unpack half my stuff at Beit Bridge for the SA police Service?  They say they were looking for "bombs??"  Anyway, since I had seen 8 countries and could potentially see a 9th one, Lesotho, on the way home, I was now kinda confused.  Head home, or head for Lesotho and make this a 9-country trip?

Memories of Swaziland

I still had Swaziland fresh in my mind, but had left already.  Heading to Lesotho or not?  I wasn't sure. What I was sure of was that my side stand was busted.  i only had my main stand left, and the bike had already done 10000 km.  What I also knew was that, if I do Lesotho, it has to be via Sani pass (a world famous pass that is about 3000m above sea level).  Of this last fact I was sure, and eventually sanity (or is that insanity) prevailed and I recalled that somebody had told me that "8" turned on its side was the symbol for "infinity", and that suited this trip perfectly.

I did not have anything more to prove to myself and felt that entering Lesotho would push me (and possibly the bike) further than needed.  After all we had now entered 8 countries (not including South Africa), and 10000km had been traveled.  This settled (between me, myself, and I) I traveled onward to the west.

I eventually reached a town called Bethal after sunset.  i thought about the last few days, and the fact that I would be home soon, and see my family, and all this made me decide to check into a lodge for a bed this night.  Strangely, none of the 3 whose doorbells (or is that gate bells??) I rang answered.  Eventually I had no choice but to enter the caravan park in Bethel and camp together with 2 other "normal" tents, and a work crew at the far end.  The camp site was next to a dam of sorts but who cared.  i had a camp site, a hot shower, yes, the water was awesome, and my tent was set up.

I went to sleep bt 19:30, since I was bushed, and my stove was out of fuel as well....... I did not want to drive into town (about 3km) to get food so just went to sleep. I slept well despite the chill in the air.

Day 24: Nelspruit to Swaziland to Bethel (SA)

I drove from Nelspruit towards Swaziland which I wanted to enter via a route I had heard about many times, Piggs Peak.  So off I headed for a town called Barberton.  I drover through Barberton and up into the Lebomboberg (I think).

Barberton in the background

Barrberton to Bulembu

Barberton to Bulembu

Eventually I get to the SA side of the border.  I am the only one there.  This has been the most scenic, and most peaceful ride in SA far, and I hjad enjoyed it alot.  I had not expected this beauty and it amazed me.  Pictures only depict so much but this was 100 times nicer....... and......... best part????? No speeding busses, trucks, or cars, since I was practically the only vehicle going this way.  The road was very good as well.

...... until.......

I crossed into Swaziland.................

Swaziland (towards Piggs Peak)

 Now, the border crossing had been painless, smooth, and inviting.  But the road got exciting, at least from my point of view.  The tar road had been broken, potholed, and created technical riding.  For me that meant pothole dodging, and standing up on the footpegs.  This is always awesome since it gives you a better vantage point to see the road from, gives your butt a break, and ...... well...... its just fun :-)  I would recommend it for any rider.

Towards Piggs Peak, Swaziland

 Swaziland, despite these initial bad roads (well, some of us thoroughly enjoy these types of roads and would hate to ride them when they are properly tarred), seemed very calm.  I don't know how to explain this but, compared to the frenzied activity in Tanzania, the crazy drivers in Kenya, and the poverty in Malawi, but people here just drive better, are more patient, don't seem to be speeding, etc.

I was surprised, and calmed, and ready for more.  I think this is a definite one for the future bucket list.  i had seen this place once before, decades ago, but now, it seemed so much more matured and calm..... or was that a description of me?? LOL

Beware of hippos AND crocodiles!!!

There were still signs that there were issues here but, to my mind, this place did not deserve the bad publicity it got.  I admit, i was only there for half a day, still, first impressions are lasting and all that.  Isn't there poverty everywhere?  Don't developed countries have poor people living below the bread line?  Don't kings and queens deserve what presidents have?

I even pondered the King Mswati III (Swazi King) issue with taking a new queen to add to his household / harem, (call it what you want) every year or so.  Wouldn't this make people respect daughters more?  I thought that, if I knew my daughter could potentially become a/the queen of my country, shouldn't I cherish and look after her, lest she turn my entier neighborhood into a pumpkin once she's queen?

I digress, but you see, motorcyclists, when driving on these types of journeys are bound to have mannnny thoughts going through their heads.  This being just a little idea of what I had been thinking.  Anyway, it is of course a matter of opinion, but I have to say, Swaziland and Zimbabwe looked better than Tanzania and kenya..... AND Malawi combined.  So, use it, don't use it...... its just my opinion.  But seriously, I would drive here anytime,,.,,,, ANYTIME.  People are super patient, and don't speed, and roads are good as well (except going from Piggs peak to the border).   Well, the sign did say "Wecome", not "Goodbye", so naturally, they would not improve the road to the border, right? ;-)

Well, for my half day I then drove to Mbabane, which also looked and felt extremely well-managed and clean.  Of course you have your African feel and some informality, but, that's Africa.  This place had the best of all worlds in my opinion.

OUT OF SWAZILAND
I left Swaziland hearfheartedly, not tired, as I had expected.  It was truly a magnificent place.  I can see why it's called a Kingdom.  it was hard to get into (easy to defend against invasion no doubt).  It was mountainous, hilly, scenic, peaceful, and reasonably well developed.

Time was running out though, and I needed to move on.

The border crossing was smooth both sides, only, it was strange to have entered and exited (is that a word?) the same day.  i hope to be back someday.
Off I went, towards a town called Bethel.

Day 24: Nelspruit (Funky Monkey Backpackers Lodge) to Bethel (via Swaziland?)

Now, Nelspruit is not a town I would choose as my primary destination for any trip.  However, it had some good points and nice views.  The gardens are well planted and the area well managed.  of course, every time I go there I will want to stay at...... drum roll..... the Funky Monkeys.....

But, don't challenge Tim the barman to pool.  he is a champion pool player and not only creates an awesome atmosphere, but kicks your butt on the pool table as well.

Funky Monkey Backpackers

Last night I was brave enough to challenge Tim (the barman), Luigi (the Italian guest married to a Zulu woman), John (the Australian traveling with his Mozambican friend who loves karate).  This place rocks any day of the week and the colorful people make it even better.

Luigi (the Italian pizza guy) vs Tim (the South African host and pool specialist)

I eventually extracted myself from the Funky Monkeys and headed for another little goal before going home, Swaziland (country no. 8 for this trip).

Day 23: Louis Trichardt to Kruger (Punda Maria gate) and on to Nelspruit

The Ultimate Guest House with its Ultimate Fireplace

This fireplace warmed me last night.  It was where I sat while on the w-fi internet service and before going to bed.  That was so cosy and warm.  Outside was chilly, but I slept well.

The pool at the Ultimate Guest House was so inviting, but, maybe during summer this might be better enjoyed....... so on I drove towards the Kruger Park.  I had agreed with myself that if the bike went normally, I would attempt to get into the Kruger Natioonal Park and attemopt to drive down the length of it.  Well, I drove to the Pundas Maria Gate but nope, I was not allowed in.  So I drove back a bit and headed south along the length of the Park (outside the gates).

Along the way to Nelspruit

This still felt like Africa, but with a South Africa twist, and the dusty little towns didn't stop coming.

Signs that I was in SA did appear though..... better farming, more fresh produce, better organised crops and animals, etc.

Banana Trees, South African farms

The sign warning of a Hippopotamus (spelling?) was exciting but of course they hide during the day due to their sensitive skins.... the hippos, not the tourists LOL.

The only hippo spotted (no, not the guy in the mirror, the guy on the sign above him)

My aim was to get to Nelspruit and to stay at the Funky Monkey Backpackers Lodge.  I had stayed here before and wanted to stay here again.  I knew this place would be awesome, so i wanted to see it again.
Along the way I drove along a pass known as the Long Tom Pass.


Long Tom Pass
Unfortunately I drove this pass at night but it was exciting all the same.  I knew I was high up and the views in the early evening were nice.  I reached the top after dark and this had been Steve's (the biker in Zimbabwe) advised route so I had to tryi it.
\

Eventually I reached the Funky Monkey Backpacker Lodge..... awesome.

Day 22: From the Giraffe Rally to Beit Bridge (back to South Africa) and into the Limpopo Region

Driving from the Giraffe Rally was bitter-sweet.  These guys had been absolutely awesome.  The atmosphere had been great, and the weather just as good.  They had loaded some meat onto the spit braai and the day was gonna be nice (for those who ate meat of course).

On the bridge at the Giraffe Rally (check the next BikerSA magazine for an official pic)

The drive to Beit Bridge was sunny and warm.  The usual donkeys and cows occasionally came into view and tried to teach bikers about awareness ahead on the road.

I took a pic at a huge Baobab at the side of the road before getting to Beit Bridge, see pic below.  These trees continue to impress me with their amazing beauty.

Baobab in Zimbabwe

Eventually I get to beit Bridge and the Zim Border Town developed right before it.  The Zim officials were a bit, well, what's the word I am looking for?? shall we call it "un-energiuzed??"

NOTE:  When leaving Zimbabwe at Beit Bridge, do not, I repeat, DO NOT, get rid of all your money until you have paid the last-minute bridge-toll-fee.  This happened to me and I had to get back on my bike, drivew back to the Zim border town (about 1km) and draw cash for the fee, about 5US$.

Eventually I crossed to the South Africa side, but not before a ZImbabwean guy tried to get me to give him money for being alive.  I kindly told him that this attitude that tourists must give people money for just being present in this world must stop and that if we can get this right, Africa will be a much better, and more inviting place.

I then got on my bike and drove over the Beit Bridge.  Sorry, no pics of this bridge, but it really is a bridge, with lots of pedestrians walking over the pedestriuan part.

getting to the South African side was of course, one of the most disheartening experiences for me.  I had crossed many border during the last 3 weeks or so, but this was the worst.  perhaps it was the fact that I was South African and expected that, coming back to my home country I would be welcomed, and my passport stampoed before foreigners with dubious business plans, or that the sings saying "SA Passport Holders", actually meant what it said.  maybe it was the fact that my bike's side stand had collapsed, yes collapsed, just before crossing the bridge to SA soil.  (I have never in all my blog reading, and website trolling, read of something like this happening, but it truly happened to my bike).  I just pulled up at the Zim immigration office, and tried putting the bike on its stand..... and...... flop.  The bike went to lay down on its side like a giraffe goes to drink water.

Its side stand just went sideways and up, like a giraffe when it drinks water.  I was more surprised than upset, and found out that yes, I am actually strong enough to lift these (more than) 200kg on my own.

Driving into Musina, I had delusions that I would be happy to be ion SA soil, the land of my birth.  But no..... this place was attempting to chew rotten eggs and spit them at people.  Signs along the highway said "dangerous area, do not stop" and similar messages.

The fact that the bike was now stalling, surging, and generally behaving like a bucking bronco did not aid my return either.  But, "onward Christian soldiers" I went and tried to nurse the bike forward under 100km/h.I drove through the Verwoerd Tunnels (quite scenic) and was amazed at how it seemed squatters (informal traders) could set up shop on the most scenic spots along this route, but yes, this was still Africa after all.

THE ULTIMATE GUESTHOUSE
Eventually I reached the end of my rope, meaning I needed to check in somewhere, find internet access, contact a mechanic, and get an idea of how to fix my bike, or this trip may end in a ride back to Cape Town on the back of a truck or trailer. I found aplace called "The Ultimate Guesthouse" and though, hmmm, this must be good.

They only have 4 camp sites, but nice facilities, and the hottest shower I had experienced in weeks (yesssss!!).  I set up tent, ordered a plate of food, and got some internet wi-fi access.  Now was the time for me to find an answer to the bikes mentasl issues.  

Eventually I find people who had similar problems on the internet and they suggested side stand (electronic sidestand switch) problems.  Shorting the switch out was the solution.  I tried it, re-connected the loose wires for my USB charging plugs as well, and waited for the morning to test everything.

Yes yes.... a "real" model in the making.....

Day 21 (evening): and Day 22 (morning) at the bike rally - "A Man from Mars"

THE GIRAFFE MOTORCYCLE RALLY

When I arrived at the bike rally I was so relieved to see the petrol for sale (as indicated by the friendly Zim officers at the toll booth.  Did I already tell you motorcycles don't pay toll fees in Zim while every other vehicle does?  I already loved this country for that fact.  In South Africa motorcycles pay the same fee as a car with a caravn behind it (now please go sit down and figure that one out).

There were lots of bikes. Probably 50, well, for me that's a lot. A huge bonfire, and a couple more fires, a bar, tents, people, music, and a cover charge (R230). I hadn't planned for that. I only had 14$ on me (remember in Zimbabwe they use a combination of us dollars and sa Rands).

Well, I promised to pay via internet if I could log on.

I eventually found Steve and his pillion wife and what a guy. Awesome couple of people, they are such nice peeps, they invite me to stay with their biking club in their hut/chalet, whatever....... Doesn't matter, because people, I had a soft, warm bed for the night awesome. They really are a great couple and are both happy I came, me too. They introduce me to the other bikers as the guy who is on a legendary trip...... So funny.

Am I a Man from Mars ??

Anyway , I left my already pitched tent and slept their in their club's quarters, very nice people. I chatted with them in the morning and that night. They all think highly about safety and do many rides together. Sounds quite good. I'm the only one who's never been to a rally? Right there...... I had the feeling .... You know.... The one where you think..... 'Hey, I must be a Martian???!???'.

Giraffe Rally at Todds (2013)

Giraffe Rally 2013 (I know, terrible pic)

Steve and his wife at the Giraffe Biker Rally 2013

The next morning everybody drove to an old bridge nearby and had a group photoe taken.  The sun was nice and warm and the company as well. 

Day 21: Mutoko (Zimbabwe) via Harare to Beit Bridge (Zimbabwe side)

The border officials were kind yesterday. The visa was free but I paid 6$ + 10$ for something to the Zim Revenue Official. Luckily I had my comesa insurance from Tanzania, so saved some dollars.

Harare, Zimbabwe

80km on I found Nyamakwere Lodge and got a camp site. The receptionist offered me a bath or shower option, I chose bath. The restaurant / bar was nice and I spent the evening watching the Euro Womens semi-final match between Norway and Denmark, sorry Denmark, the penalty shootout got you in the end.

I left early, heading for Harare. Wow. Its well developed. I managed to draw some dollars from the ATM. Here they use US$ but give you change in SA Rands (strange).

It was 5 days before the national elections and I did not want to see too much. By now, I'm ready to see my family. This trip has been awesome, but unfortunately it was winding down now.

I'm headed for a famous border post, Beit Bridge.


On my way to Beit Bridge a biker and his pillion pass me at about 140km/h. I was doing about 110km/h, which was high for this trip. Later, about 2km down the road I pass a guy waving at me. Its the biker. I think, is he ok? An stop a bit further down the road (50m). He comes running. 'Hey, where am I going he asks', I say 'Beit Bridge', because I'm trying to get home to my family after a marathon trip crossing Botswana, Zambia, Tanzania, Kenya, back to Tanzania, Malawi, Mozmbique, and now Zimbabwe. He says 'wow', that's awesome, and tells me about the Giraffe Biker Rally happening this weekend, as an annual event. I say, I've never been to a rally, and he says wow. I'd never felt it necessary to go to one? So he goes back and says, he just wanted to tell me and thought I might want to go along, but it meant turning right, off this route, on another road that went past Bulawayo but also to Beit Bridge.

I politely declined because I was set on crossing the border today, tonight, whatever.

So I drove on to Beit Bridge.

Truck loads of voters singing for the election in Zimbabwe on 31 july, 2013

When I got to Beit Bridge, it was 18:00, and dark already. The guy, Steve, had mentioned that you could also turn 'back' from here, and kind of double back on the other road to get to the Giraffe Rally......... I was thinking that he was so kind to invite me, and I turned it down? So. ....... I turn right, away from Beit Bridge (which was left), and I decide, ok. Let's go to the rally and see what its about, since I anyway need a place to sleep tonight, so, off I go, to the rally.

Now. I've driven 305km on this (17 liter capacity) tank already

I thought it would only be 50km down the road so I should make it. Without filling up, or getting more cash, I drive on. To honormy invitation. Now, the 50km came and went and on I went in the dark. On, and on, and on..... 97km later I got there. Sweating from the fact that I had barely any fuel in my tank, the donkeys were grazing by the roadside and scaring th living daylights out of me, and I don't even know of I will like the rally..... But I juuuust make it.

Day 20: Mozambique (Ulongwe) to Zimbabwe (Mutoko area)

Man, I am so confused about which day it is. If this is day 20, what happened to the others?

Anyway, I woke early, before 5am. I thought the sun was rising, but it was the light outside my door in the passage.

I walked to the nearby ATM but it was swithed off? Now what. The reception guy (who speaks practically no English) says, '8 o'clock'.

Once again, I am desperate to find a visa powered ATM that works. Hope this town has one. Also, I really need get a message to my wife, whom I have not spoken with for days.

At 8 o'clock I walk to the ATM with the young guy (Fernando). A line of people has grown from 4 earlier to about 30. The ATM was out of cash and they needed to wait for it to be reloaded.

I couldn't get money over the counter and the ATM asked me for 6 digits for some reason, other people were only asked for 4?

Well, after much delay and discussion, the guys at the rest house let me go (I was 60 Mozambique Meticas short (about 2us$).

I drove to. Big town called Tete where I knew an ATM tat worked waited. Luckily I had filled up before entering Mozambique.

At the ATM I met 2 south Africans who were doing missionary work for a month.

Just before crossing Tete's bridge

The bridge over the Zambezi (Tete, Mozambique)  (I took this pic while driving, after taking the phone from my pocket, unlocking the phone using my secret code with one hand, then aiming, and shooting........ i was pretty impressed with myself LOL .... )

We chatted briefly and parted ways. Shortly after getting some cash I crossed the Zambezi river, for the second time on this trip, but this time on a brand new bridge, one of 2 being built by mozambique.

The brdge over the Zambezin at Tete (after crossing)

Off I went to the border. The road was good. People by the side of the road were crushing stone by hammer (or some hand implement).

Taken by a passer-by, what a friendly guy.  I used all 10 Portuegese words I knew on him.... and he loved it

On the way I was glad to see many more baobab trees, they really are amazing looking.

I quickly learnt what this sign meant .....

The road was good until, it was not anymore. Potholes linked by bits of tar occurred randomly. It tool a lot of focus driving this road, and sharing with the many trucks that were also doing this route.

After Tete (Mozambican deviation road!!)

On the way I stopped at a village to take pics. 2 guys appear from nowhere. One asks for a lift, I say ok. So off we go. After 25km we get to the border and he asks me for 2$ for showing me the way!!?!! What a crazy, I told him he owes me 2$ instead. I drove off to Mozambique immigration and customs to get my papers sorted.

Baobab in Mozambique

After making friends with the Mozambican officials, who walked me out the door and came to look at my bike, as well as calling a foreign exchange "consultant" to help me change money from Malawian Kwachas to Mozambican Meticas.  While changing they kinda scolded the guy for trying to cheat me out of a few Meticas, and he kindly gave me the balance. What kind officials, with a smile and a wave we parted ways.

ZIMBABWE INTRODUCTION
On the Zimbabwe side of the border the officials were kinda serious, until the one made conversation with me about my interesting trip.  Payments were made at a well-marked counter (I think it said Zimbabwe Revenue Authority) and signs spoke against bribery.

Zim seemed organised and hard at work making a good international impression.  I was quite impressed, considering all the bad we read anbout the place in the news in South Africa.

After tyrying to leave the border area gate innto Zim, the gate guard lady says the Interpol Police officers want to see me.  I drove back the 20m or so and introduced myself.  They asked for the passport, and some basic questions.  They said I should bring police clearance next time.  I am still not sure if its for me or the bike.  I was grateful I didn't have to unpack the bike panniers since it was late and getting to sunset, about 17:00).  They kindly greeted me and waved me on.

This was the only border I had seen Interpol at.  Zim was definitely doing good work..... but I was not criminally intentioned and got through relatively easily.........

ZIMBABWE NIGHT 1
I reached a lodge called Nyamakwere, and pulled in.

The entrance to the lounge / bar / reception area was very nice.  Locals and a few guests mingled at the bar quietly, watching the sports channel and the eNews Channel.

I found out that they had camping and booked in.

Just before departure from Nyamakwere Lodge 

Yes...... I was the only camper once again ;-)