Day 4: Gaborone to Francis Town (Botswana)

Good morning Gaborone

Just after leaving the lodge I stopped at the 1st mall to draw some cash. Unfortunately the bank only opened an hour later, at 9am. Not wanting to get stuck further down the road without cash I waited and walked round the mall. It was huge, and had all kinds of shops, banks, even a Game store, a Cash Crusaders, and a Clicks store, so Botswana is very well connected.

After getting sorted at the bank I tried my luck at Cash Crusaders. I wanted to sell my 12 year old tent, which I had bought (already used at that stage)12 years ago. After much negotiation I was given 50Pula.

The tent was way too big (4 man size) for this trip,and was so old anyway, that I was quite lose to just throwing it away.

So, with the 50 Pula (about ZAR50), I headed to Mica hardware store and for a smaller 2-man tent and a smaller sleeping bag (remember, I lost that yesterday). Once I had acquired the smaller tent, and a new sleeping bag, I eventually extracted myself from Gaborone.  Heading further north, the day had only just begun getting interesting. The Dakar was hungry for the road, and off we went.

How many traffic cops can I meet in one day? 

It was 12:30 and I headed further north. The Dakar was roaring like a beast (well with the standard exhaust, more like a refined, well educated beast).

About 50km north on the A1 highway, which was in perfect condition, someone coming in my direction flashes their lights at me, now, since I had the orange headlight protector on, I thought that was the reason...... Boy was I wrong.

I saw him step into the road about 400m ahead and wave me down, so there was no doubt..... Traffic Cop!! But, I was sure I had slowed down after seeing the sign.

In South Africa the traffic officer comes to your window and gives you the fine, not here.  I pulled over, parked the bike and went to the officer who was very polite.  He sat me down in his chair by the camera, and said, 'have a look'.

He showed me the video..... There I was, coming round the bend.... (the video looked really cool) until the red '98' flashed on the screen, indicating that I had been doing 99 in an 80km/h zone. I could now stop protesting and accept my fate.

He said, 'go over to that lady in the police car and talk with her'... I was suspicious, but, had to go.

She invites me to sit down in the passenger seat and shows me a table. It shows the speed in 1 column, and the fine in the other column..... 360 Pula, about 400 Rand. Wow, I begged, I pleaded, and put on my saddest face, so she eventually said 'how much can you manage?'. My mind raced, too little and I risk insulting her, too much and I risk being over generous... A figure appeared in my mind...'100 Pula?'... She says ok and I take out the note. I put it down and we start chatting. She was so friendly.  'Older sister' friendly, not the other kind of friendly. She asks why I didnt bring my wife, why come this far by bike, etc. Etc. I even asked myself those questions, meanwhile my loving wife is the biggest supporter of me doing this trip. Anyway, I made a few jokes and off I went.  Even getting a pic with the officer that stopped me. Guess what he said when I ask for the pic? 'As long as its within the parameters of the law'. What a kind soul.

The traffic officer with the great speeding camera

Off we go, the Dak and I. Happy to be free on the black snake of tar.... Having paid our dues.... Or so we thought.  After 2 stops for animal infection control or something, we were cruising into Francistown when..... No, not again.

I pull over, convinced I had got it right . I had seen the 80 sign and slowed down, but nope, the camera shows me otherwise, so..... Off to the traffic office sitting in the car I go.

I put on the sad face, which was not an act, and proceed to nicely tell the traffic officer my situation..... Its getting late (it was 17:30, the sun sets at 18:00),  and I still have 40km to go to get to Francistown and on top of that I still need to find nice, clean accommodation. The kind gentleman asked if I can afford the 300 Pula fine. I said 'no', and showed the 200P in my wallet (the others was hidden elsewhere), and he drew me a map directing me to Tati River Lodge. He also made me promise to watch my speed, which I did smiling all the way.

Camping at Tati River Lodge (Francistown, Botswana)

18:00 I arrive at Tati River Lodge in Francistown, wow, what a nice reception area. I was worried about the price, and true to form, a chalet would cost 350P... But camping 75P!!! Great, I accept the camp site and set up my tent in the deserted camping area.

Crossing the Tropic of Capricorn in Botswana

Yep, that's us (the Dakar and I), and the tar snake going north ;-)