Tuesday 16 July 2013

Day 9: Zambia (Mutinondo Wilderness) to Tanzania (Tunduma)!

This is definitely day 9. I just re-calculated. I slept well last night. I was so snug because inside my tent I had bedding which was rented from the camp site. It included (single mattress,  sheet, blanket, super thick duvet, pillow, as well as a hand and bath towel. Super.

The roads are mysterious but inviting ....
06:17 time to get up. Battle the challenging  24km road back to the highway, then head east to Nakonde, the Tanzania border awaits. I hope it is easier than the Zambia border was.
Snug as a bug in a rug ....  this was my best camp sleep of the whole trip ;-)
I ate pancakes with my American neighbors this morning. They do developmental NGO work in Zambia. Horses turned up at the camp site this morning and tried eating the leftover pancakes and flour.

11:00 Just filled up at Mpika. 114 kwacha. 11 liters. 286km

BORDER CROSSING: Nakonde (Zambia) to Tunduma (Tanzania)
Now, I had reached the border lat the afternoon, about 17:00.  The usual handful of hopefuls swarmed me and advise me to go here and go there.  I tried to shoo them away but to no avail. 2 hangers on remain, but that's manageable.

I do the formalities on the Zambia side, and get my visa for Tanzania (free for SA citizens now).  I get a Temporary Import Permit (also free), so far so good. The officials are friendly, and my hangers on are still there.

I get out of the gate with the motorcycle and I am almost done.  My hangers on (2 guys) ask if I have insurance and I admit I don't.  They show me a sign and we go down a darkening alley walking in a rain water channel to a dark side room where I can get COMESA insurance.  The insurance costs me 70 000 Tanzanian Shillings, about 43US$.  This seems reasonable since it covered me for 15 countries.  I had paid more than this for the Zambian insurance alone!  I considered it a bargain, and though its hard to believe you can get official documents from a side street shop with dimmed lights and questionable location, this document did help me later on in this trip.

TUNDUMA BORDER TOWN: BUZZING LIKE A BEE HIVE
My border crossing had been reasonably smooth.  I had only paid for insurance and felt ok.  I was however confronted with my next obstacle.  The Tanzanian monster called......... Traffic!
Back door of "Lunch Time" Hotel Tanzania

Small motor bikes were buzzing around, Tuk-Tuk taxis flying all over, there was hooting, some lights, some indicating, but mostly none.  It looked like a bee hive, and smelled of sweet smokee.  I had conquered the border post, but now I needed 3 things, an ATM that would give me money, fuel, and to drive 70km to my chosen accommodation.  The sun had just set.

After realising that English is less spoken in Tanzania than Zambia, I eventually get a Tuk-Tuk driver to lead me to a VISA powered ATM.  i get money, but then he asks for 10 000 TSH (tanzanian Shillings).  The policeman there speaks to him and he reduces to 5000Tsh, which I agree to.  But then the policeman says I should not go as far since the road was unsafe.  He chats with colleagues and they agree something called "Lunch Time" would be safe and clean for me.

The finishes at "Lunch Time Hotel"
He asks if I can make space for huis huge frame on the motorcycle (about 85kg at least) and I do.  So off we go.  12km further we turn into a walled property, drive up the gravel road, and make it to the reasonably nice entrance.

We walk into the reception area, I am in front and open the door. On my right is a bright light and I can just make out ....... what !?! 3 Ninjas !!!  Now, you may not believe me but there were 3 Ninjas right there, sitting on their knees, looking at a bright light on top of a camera.

A movie was being filmed but I was so shocked I couldn't think of taking out my camera. Believe me, this was a surprise...... 3 Ninjas in the lobby of "Lunch Time" hotel in Tanzania!  At least I remembered to put my hands together and bow to them when I was led to my room (LOL).


I entered here at night (the bike is in the foreground)
The policeman, named Petros, made sure I had a good room, had been checked in, and only then reluctantly left me.  I offered him taxi far back to his post and he reluctantly accepted the 5000 Tsh.  I felt safe, secure, and well taken care of.  I really was convinced that I was being guided and protected on this journey and there was nothing to worry about.

My room had cost 30 000 Tsh (less thasn 20US$).

I am so sorry I never got pics of the Ninjas, or officer Petros (Peter), for he was awesome.

No comments:

Post a Comment