Day 6: Livingston (Zambia)-The smoke that thunders

The ferry crossing at the Zambezi (very cool)

09:30 I arrived at the SA side of the border with Zambia. Things wet smoothly, no fees, all stamps given.

10:15 I get to the ferry 'terminal'. A guy waves me through and says he will help me, because I need kwacha and there's nowhere to change it.

I'm worried about the costs on this trip and the time ?I lost the whole day crossing the Zambezi by ferry, paying various fees, tolls, carbon taxes, police taxes, council taxes, etc.

All this was followed by me having to negotiate with my "self-appointed" fixer, who did help a bit by giving me money to pay the various fees ion Kwacha, but, who also wanted me to pay 267 US$ in the end?

I negotiated him down to 127US$ and we were both happy, though I was disappointed that these freelance assistants can just waltz round inside these border areas, "helping" people, then charging whatever they feel, without so much as a look from the officials on duty.  the officials themselves were very helpful and kind, but the freelance fixers, eish man.

A friend I had met taking his son and his Land Rover over says he paid 500 US$!!!!  this process must be managed better in future, but I guess its part of the "African" experience.

On the other side it had been crazy. My 'fixer' (who is fixing stuff for me) takes me to various doors, offices, etc, where I speak to officials and get documents (permits, taxes, etc) all the while using my fixer's kwacha, which he was giving me, and then returning my receipts for my records.  Driving onto the ferry was amazing. Crossing a river with a bike on a barge/ ferry awesome.  Water was splashing onto the deck from the little waves.

With water splashing onto the driving surface, very slippery.

Vic Falls: The Smoke that Thunders

Eventually I get to the falls, but first, another speeding "fine".  I was going 80 in a 60 zone. Same story, go to the car, talk to my colleague, etc. I end up paying 100 kwacha negotiated down from 180.  A camera, a traffic cop on the road, and one in the car, the "usual", and eventually 100 kwacha later, I am free to go (with no receipt, again).

Eventually getting to the Vic Falls I realise that the fine, the entrance fee (anopther 100 Kwacha) and the hassle of negotiating with the policeman was absolutely reasonable considering this is a world heritage site. It was nothing short of amaz

Rainbows caused by the spray...... you will not believe how much water goes over those falls, wow.

I couldn't leave the Falls quickly, I walked round them and spent time meditating at various spots. By the time I left the day was gone.  After rolling round in the tent for 3 nights, I booked into Jollyboys Backpackers to sleep on a dorm bed for 15 US$. This trip is adding up in terms of cost, and I hope to make it out and back in one piece, and with some change in my pocket.

On the ferry from Botswana to Zambia

At Vic falls posing