Sunday, 21 July 2013

Day 13: Birthday - part 2: into Kenya

So my border crossing into Kenya went smoothly. Interestingly, they have a huge bank after the immigration office, in the middle of nowhere, well, between immigration and customs actually, but the distance is probably a kilometer or so.

It was 16:30 (17:30) local time and the guard suggested I get accommodation right there, then drive the compulsory dirt road through the park in the morning. My garmin navigation system said there was a lodge 20km down the road though, so I thought what the heck, it will only be dark in an hour, I can get there and camp before dark. So off I went.

After 20km I didn't see th turnoff and thought, that's strange, maybe a bit more? So on I went through the game park which reportedly had many wild animals, especially elephants. Wow. A landcruiser with what looked like rangers / guides came past and I asked about the lodge, they did not know about it an said if I drive 30km further there was another one. Wow. So on I went, the sun went down and stilll on I went, carefully picking my way between potholes, sandy bits, rocks, etc, at about 35km/h. After 30km fear set in, after 40km I was desperate, after 50km I started seeing newspaper headlines, 'Man dies after falling from his motorcycle, not being able to pick it up again, and being trampled by elephants and chewed up by hyenas in game park..... On his birthday'.The lights coming toward me brought hope, I was sure the rangers had alerted a search party, but no, the taxi just left me in a dust cloud and drove on in the other direction.
My bike parking in the curio shop.
When I got through some kind of hanging wires I saw a curio shop/house next to the road. Fortunately Evans understood and took me in.  I asked if I could sleep at their place, in the garden (in my tent of course), and he agreed.

Evans' amazingly generous family (my hosts)

Evans: Curio shop owner and tourist saviour extraordinaire

My bike vs Evans' bike


Spotted the next day (donkey power)
Once I was introduced to his wife and sister discussions ensued.  It turns out he had forgotten to get a few things from the shop on his way home.  So, I agreed to take him to the shop on the motorcycle.  Helmets are a luxury in these parts so he didn't wear one.  When we got to the shop I met his mother and father, who greeted me and got some basic information.  he chatted with Evans in Swahili.  I didn't understand, but, body language made it clear.  His father had said that I should sleep inside the house since I had come so far (from South Africa).  It was then agreed that they give me a bed inside the house in order to keep the peace.  Evans' wife even made us supper, and made us all french toast in the morning as well. Wow. I donated something and after exchanging contact details I was off at 11:00 the next day.

Africa trip

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